Hi guys,
I recently experienced a problem never happened before.
I recently finished the assembly of a DIY steering wheel that works great, pass all the tests out of games.
Here is what happen
- When I connect the wheel everything goes OK
- When I start SimHub (before or after connecting the wheel) everything goes OK
- When I launch Iracing (if I am lucky) after few minutes the wheel LED turn white, buttons unresponsive, and the sound of repeated hardware disconnection; at that point if I try to disconnect and reconnect the wheel, it just turn white not loading the screen and repeated disconnection sound.
- When I reconnect the wheel without exiting and re-entering SimHub, keep disconnecting sound
At the moment I only tested on ACC and Iracing, and as I start the session the same issue happens.
I have tried to
- use different USB port, hub, back pc, front pc, same issue.
- disconnect all the unnecessary devices (button boxes, FX, other screens) same issue.
that doesn't happen if I run Z1 dash, so I suppose is some thing related to SimHub that doesn't go right
If I use my Wireless simucube wheel the issue doesn't happen (but that is not USB 😉 )
if I use my dash with Vocore + LED (not with that wheel) no issue.
I noted that entering the arduino section of simhub and going on my hardware, it says COM6 "unusable port (configured for commercial PID/VID)".
the hardware of the wheel is KODAI RACING GR.3S.
if anyone can help would be great
Thank you
hi, I got a kind of similar issue with my motion board. Simhub motion logs said the com8 acces is denied after a while and I had to reset the board to make it work, reconnectiong wasn t working ( maybe the sound you ear if you have an auto reconnect configured in simhub)
Is your DIY wheel have a FFB ? if yes maybe look at the power cable and your USB cable. Are they tied together ? usb cable shielding ?
Hi mate, all problem resolved. big problem was the USB cable. I don't know what section of it as were 2 pieces one spring and one normal. both of them are shielded.
My thoughts are directed to the soldering quality of the USB A connector that could have made some false contact, but could also be the 4 pin connector I used to junction the 2 cables. I never investigated, I just used a coiled usb cable I bought for that purpose, cut the B connector and soldered a quality 4 pin snap on and all good since then.
the wheel I was talking about is just where you put your hands on, not the motor